OF TRADING POSTS AND TIMELESS TRINKETS

I started a new collection of sorts (like I needed another), this summer...Bell Trading Post copper jewelry.  These pieces are all from the 1930's to late 1950's, dated through the hallmarks found on the backs of each piece.  All Indian-made, for tourists of the time.  Still to be found, readily - these all came from antique stores in the Denver area.  Still affordable, if you search out the right deals - nothing here cost me over $32.00 (three were under $15), though it's all worth more.

Bell Trading Company was founded in Albuquerque, NM in 1932.  Native American artisans were employed by the trading post to make jewelry for tourists (often behind windows where you could actually watch them at work) along the Route 66 corridor of the American Southwest.  Copper was a big selling point for a lot of this touristy jewelry, due to low cost in manufacturing.  It's actually come full circle in recent years, with many of today's Native American jewelers turning back to working with copper and brass due to high silver prices.  Today's current metal prices:  

Copper -  $2.10/lb.

Silver - $19.79 oz.

Yeah - THAT'S why!

The turquoise in the butterfly bracelet is a synthetic, made using a type of epoxy and ground turquoise dust.  Sterling silver jewelry items were also produced (as well as nickel silver pieces, which were more along the price lines of the copper), but the copper made for a line of jewelry that was well affordable to tourists seeking out real, Indian-made items.  Copper was also touted as an arthritis relief remedy - then AND today, with so many athletes turning to copper lined clothing, necklaces, etc.

Bell's competition, at the time, was Maisel's Trading Post - also in Albuquerque.  The two businesses merged in 1935, and Maisel's is still going strong today - MAISEL'S

Wondering where your piece is from?  As in my post about authentic Indian jewelry, flip it over and look for a "hallmark".  These all have the Bell symbol from the time period of the 1930s and the late 1950s.  Sometime in the 60's the symbol was changed to an arrow with a hanging sign below it, and later, to a "Sunbell".

One of the "drawbacks" of copper jewelry (as anyone who was a child in the 50s/60s and had a copper ring or bracelet can tell you), is that it WILL turn your skin green.  Skin is easily washable. Whoever owned a few of these pieces actually shined them up before selling them.  I'm one who would rather have the patina, but it's all a matter of personal preference.  These will patina again, over time (they neglected to get the inside, where you see the green).

The Indian Trading Posts found throughout the SW were originally places of trade - the tribal artisans would bring items in for just that...trade.  Many of the posts also dealt with pawned items, giving the Indians money to hold their pawned jewelry, saddles, blankets, etc., and selling it once the items went "dead" - meaning they were no longer wanted or retrieved by the owners.  Today's trading posts work in the same fashion, though the artisan items are usually sold to the shops now.  Clockwise from upper left - Cameron Trading Post, Cameron, AZ;  Perry Null Trading Post, Gallup, NM; Santo Domingo Indian Owned Trading Post, Old Towne Albuquerque, NM; Jackies Trading Post, Taos, NM; Tuba Trading Post, Tuba City, AZ.

The top bracelet is done in the "Repousse" style, meaning the large raised designs were hammered into the piece from the backside - it is 1.75" wide, and cost me a ridiculously low price...SO low.  The butterfly is 1.5" wide, and soldered to a full split shank bracelet - again, the turquoise is faux, but every piece here is, indeed, Indian made - and heavy copper.  This one cost me $32.00.  The two smaller bracelets?  One was $6.00 and the other, $10.  And, OK...the large one up top ran me $12 - fabulous antique store finds, and a great starting point for those wanting to get into collecting some beautiful pieces with a little Route 66 history behind them, at affordable prices.

Richards Trading Post in Gallup, NM - these cases shown hold old pawn pieces for sale, as well as being backed by a wall of pawned saddles.

On my newer copper pieces, I have protected the fronts of my bracelets with painter's tape, and sprayed a light coat of polyurethane on the inside, to lessen my arm turning green - it does work for awhile (depending on how hot the day is and how much my arm sweats under the bracelet), before eventually wearing off and requiring another coat.  Do not spray the faces of your pieces - you can remove time acquired "color" with a simple once over with REALLY FINE steel wool, or a polishing cloth, if you like.  Me?  I can't wait for the patina to eventually reclaim this one.

While travelling between Santa Fe and Albuquerque last month, we dropped off the main highway to visit Santo Domingo Pueblo, hearing that the old trading post there that had burned down in 2001 had undergone renovations, and was set to reopen to the public.

Sadly, the date had been set and then cancelled, suddenly, with no explanation - the post remains unopened. We did drop into the Santo Domingo Pueblo, to walk through the beautiful old Church in the center plaza, and were treated to a visit at a potter's house.  There is no photography permitted within the pueblo itself, hence a lack of photos, other than the trading post which is back on down the road.  

SANTO DOMINGO TRADING POST

How something so kitschy and touristy has captured my heart, at the moment, is beyond me...another of those links to happy childhood vacation trips, and having a few precious bucks in my pocket to spend on beautiful treasures!

HOW DO I KNOW IT'S AUTHENTIC?...American Indian Jewelry and a New Form of Highway Robbery in the Southwest

I was asked this question by an interested friend last week and, having bought what has turned out to be a substantial piece this past week (sheerly by accident, and a post for two days from now), and knowing there is a problem that has been arising in the American Southwest for some years now, I thought I'd share a bit of what I know:

First and foremost, collect what you LIKE!  If you don't care, then it doesn't matter.  However, if you DO care what you're getting, then arm yourself with as much information as you can beforehand.  The tourist areas of the American Southwest have been experiencing an onslaught of shops owned by people of Middle Eastern descent POSING as Native American, and selling jewelry that they advertise as being Native American when, in actuality, it's knockoff jewelry designs being produced overseas...and certainly NOT by Native Americans!  And it's not just jewelry - rugs, pottery - none of it seems to be off limits to this deceptive practice.

To persons/tourists unfamiliar with our American Indians (and that's NOT an offensive word) by sight, this presents a serious problem.  You're NOT getting what you THINK you're paying for, in these shops, and it's undercutting the livelihoods of one of the most historically oppressed peoples in the United States.

The pieces above (and below) have all been collected by me personally, since the early seventies.  I used to wear them daily back then, and quit when everyone else zeroed in on the craze (thanks, Sundance Catalog).  I've begun slowly pulling them back out.

It wasn't really a problem then, knowing you were getting AUTHENTIC pieces.  Some of mine are old pawn pieces (if money was needed, Indians pawned their jewelry to trading posts on the reservations - when it went "dead", it was sold by the posts.  This practice continues to this day).  One bracelet was ordered and purchased DIRECT from the artisan - standing in his house, atop the mesa that houses the Hopi Reservation.  ALL others were purchased from either TRIBAL OWNED Cultural Centers/Trading Posts, or from REPUTABLE dealers.  If you walk into a shop where the guy behind the counter is wearing a nice, crisp white shirt, suit slacks, (OK, dressed like a Gold and Silver Jewelry dealer) and is on a cell phone, chances are you are not in the right place!

Look for hallmarks - most of the Native American pieces have an identifiable hallmark stamped somewhere on the back of the piece.  The silver overlay Kokopelli bracelet contains the hallmark of Bernard Dawahoya (upper right), while the larger sandcast bracelet with the turquoise center is stamped FJ on the reverse.  The three-stone bracelet was a high school graduation gift from my parents.

 

Old pawn necklaces from the Santo Domingo tribe (known for their heishi and turquoise necklaces), but also loved by, and usually attributed to, the Navajos.  These were usually strung on imitation Sinew (the real sinew was taken from buffalo gut - imitation is much more obtainable), or waxed cotton cords.  The newer pieces of jewelry utilize silver closures and more contemporary methods.  Doesn't mean they're not authentic, but know who you are buying from...when in doubt, ASK!

I started with the rings when I was young, travelling with a knowledgeable couple of parents.  These were all reservation pawn shop purchases, and extremely affordable at the time.

 

Which brings me to how easily confused someone "new" to the game can become when looking to start collecting.  The two OLD necklaces are on the left, laying next to a piece that I, MYSELF, am stringing - a work in progress. NEVER to be passed off as Native American - EVER!  This is being made BY ME, FOR ME, and I will TELL people I made it.  This, however, is NOT the same honesty you will find among shop owners posing as something they are not, and selling dishonestly. Caveat Emptor - buyer beware - when in doubt, ASK!

The unfinished, natural turquoise slab pieces were purchased at a bead store in Santa Fe three years ago, with no direction in mind at the time.  The bronze piece that I have hung from the bottom is an actual bronze sculpture, by Robert Rogers, that has hung from a simple leather cord since I received it as a gift.  It has always deserved better, and I decided it was time to combine the two elements, along with some beading wire.  I would NEVER claim this to be anything but handmade BY ME.  If we were all this honest, there wouldn't be a problem.  

 

Know your turquoise, as well...and again, if you don't care, it doesn't matter.  Collect what YOU like.  Natural turquoise deposits in the United States have just about been completely depleted, as far as mining it goes.  Long ago, it was discovered how to make turquoise "go a little further", by grinding it into dust and mixing it with epoxy.  Stabilizing in turquoise is sometimes hard to spot, unless you really know.  Then there's the Dyed Howlite.  Again, find a reputable dealer and ASK!

American Indian made?  Both ARE, believe it or not.  Rising silver prices have turned many of the Navajo silversmiths to copper and brass in recent years.

 

Again, HALLMARKS...the one on the left was made by Emerson Bill, a Navajo.  Which leads me back to my statement of them both being American Indian made...the one on the right was made by a Navajo silversmith, employed by a red-headed designer from Texas, by the name of Rocki Gorman.  She's got a breathtaking shop in Santa Fe, with a willingness to let you know EXACTLY who made the pieces for her, that she has designed.  This is stamped with HER hallmark, but Indian made nonetheless, utilizing many of the old stamps and designs from years past - these are both purchases made within the past 6 or 7 years.

 

The copper and brass pieces are an affordable way to enjoy some beautiful Native American pieces, for a fraction of the cost.  They patina beautifully over time, too!

 

Soooooooo...how DO you know you're getting the "real deal"?  There are a few ways.  First, BUY DIRECT.  Many of the Southwest towns known for their Native American "draw" have Indian Markets and/or selling areas.  Santa Fe has the Palace of the Governors Native American Vendors Program.  Old Town Albuquerque has the same type of set-up, but is now allowing NON-Native Americans to hawk their wares, among the Indians.  The bottom photo is my Dad, on a recent trip to Acoma Pueblo, where he purchased the beautiful bowl directly from the woman who made it.  BUY DIRECT - it's usually the best way of knowing what you are getting, and from whom.  

 

Buy from stores that announce themselves, RIGHT UP FRONT, as being Indian...

or Native American owned (these shops are both in Old Town Albuquerque, with faux Indian shops to either side).

This sort of signage has come about more and more in recent years, partly from desperation at the dishonest vendors moving in and pulling a "fast one" on unsuspecting tourists.  One non-Indian shop that passes itself AS being so (in old town Albuquerque) has even gone so far as to hire a Caucasian woman to "front" a shop filled with both American Indian, but MORE imported items claiming to be Indian made.  The honest shops in a town DO know who the outsiders are, and will always steer you to the right spots.  Don't just assume that a shop advertising Native American jewelry is actually selling the REAL thing.  When in doubt, ASK!

Seek out reputable dealers...ones that have been in business for YEARS prior to the deceitful practices the SW is experiencing.  Ones that still deal DIRECTLY, and honestly. with the Indians themselves.  Richardson's in Gallup (the tiny towns of Gallup and Zuni, NM both have a HUGE problem with this, now) has been in business since 1913.  Garland's in Sedona, Jackies in Taos, Hubbell's historic site in Ganado, NM...ALL reputable.  And they can tell you who else is!  An interesting article from 2003 for some further reading, click here... TENSION OVER WHO PROSPERS IN AN INDIAN CAPITAL

The Rainbow Man (pictured above), Native Jackets, Shalako, Keishi, and Shiprock Gallery in Santa Fe will ALL point you in the right direction, if they don't have what you want themselves.  Just arm yourself if it matters to you WHO made what you're after.  Again, collect what you LIKE, but when in doubt, ASK!  I'm not an expert, by any means...I've just learned - by asking and paying attention.  In a few days, I'll be back to show you a special piece I acquired this week...have a wonderful weekend.

A SW TRILOGY - SANTA FE, ALBUQUERQUE, AND GALLUP, NEW MEXICO on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

"This year we are making a studied conscious effort not to be studied or conscious. Santa Fe is now one of the most interesting art centers in the world and you, O Dude of the East, are privileged to behold the most sophisticated group in the country gamboling freely... And Santa Fe, making you welcome, will enjoy itself hugely watching the Dude as he gazes. Be sure as you stroll along looking for the quaint and picturesque that you are supplying your share of those very qualities to Santa Fe, the City Incongruous... Be yourself, even if it includes synthetic cowboy clothes, motor goggles and a camera." ~

1928 Santa Fe Fiesta Program

I didn't write it (as I'm chuckling to myself, thinking of Jeff Bridges as "The Dude", in The Big Lebowski), but if you've ever been to Santa Fe, you "get" this quote, exactly!  One of the most interesting art centers in the country - exactly.  Sophisticated groups gamboling freely - exactly.  Making you feel welcome - exactly.  City Incongruous - EXACTLY! 

From the gorgeous SW architecture, to the Native American Vendors Program at the Palace of the Governors, to the quaint and picturesque center plaza, museums, shops, galleries, belly dancers...there's something for everyone in this beautiful SW town, Dude!

I did a few posts on Santa Fe last year (that you can find using the "Secret Words" section, or starting HERE), detailing more of the history of the town.  Rather than repeat myself now, some of the sights from town can speak volumes, and just might "enjoy itself hugely watching the Dude as he gazes".  I know, I couldn't have written it better myself, if I tried!  Maybe with a margarita or two?!

The historic SANTA FE DEPOT sits just outside of the downtown area, at 410 S. Guadalupe St.  A day pass on the Rail Runner, to our next stop of Albuquerque, will cost you $10.00, if you forgot your "motor goggles".  Before that, however, drop across the parking lot to Tomasita's Santa Fe...deliciously authentic Mexican food, with probably the best local charm going.

If you're lucky, you'll hit on a night that Santa Fe's ONLY all-female mariachi, Mariachi Buenaventura, is entertaining.  Beautiful girls, stunning voices, accomplished musicians - always a crowd pleaser!

The flavor of the food sings as loudly as the mariachi!  Green chile, hominy, sopapillas, and margaritas... 

And, you want the best margarita in town?  You head to MARIA'S, up the road and around the corner.  The food is outstanding, but with over 100 margaritas (this was a few pages into the margarita menu, by the way...they are not all priced like this, though some go higher - I believe the "house" margarita, which is excellent, will run you around $6-7) to choose from, you might be neither "studied or conscious", when you're done!  BEST in town, Dude!!!

Once you've "slept off" the salt (I'm sure that's what kicked my ass last time), and found your motor goggles once again, it's a quick 63 miles SW to Albuquerque, by car. 

ALBUQUERQUE is just as charming and unique as Santa Fe, with a little less hustle and bustle (in Old Town, at least).  Native American vendors, galleries, museums, shops - it's all here too, Dude!

 I've written about old town (HERE) before, also...these SW towns are some of the most enchanting and colorful in our United States.  Albuquerque is also known as THE BALLOONING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD, with the world's largest hot air balloon festival taking place each October.  Obviously, we weren't there then, or my pictures would have been spectacular.

But, the food is spectacular, anytime of year.  Said it before...will say it again CHURCH STREET CAFE - best posole in town!  And, you can walk it off strolling back to the main plaza...or, I think I saw a trolley somewhere, Dude. 

"Just take my way, that's the highway ~ that's the best.  Get your kicks on Route 66!"  138 mi. west, along old Route 66 (Interstate 40), lies the sleepy little railroad town of Gallup, NM. 

Located in the heart of tribal lands, you'll find a large American Indian influence in town.  Make a stop at Richardson's Trading Post, on the main drag, for an incredible look at Native American jewelry (including old pawn pieces), baskets, rugs (Richardson's claims to have the largest selection of Native American rugs in the Southwest on display), and antique pieces.  I wasn't sure they'd let me inside with my camera that day (though I didn't ask, either...it's like walking into a museum, really), so amused myself with just what I found in one front window...some antique relics, and one of the most incredibly weird taxidermy mountain lions I will probably ever see ~ Dude!

2012 SW Travel Destinations - OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO

Approximately 63 miles SW of Santa Fe, on I-25, sits quaint and historic Old Town Albuquerque.

The town of Albuquerque was built in the traditional Spanish village pattern: a central plaza surrounded by government buildings, homes, and beautiful San Felipe de Neri Church. This central plaza area has been preserved and is open to the public as a museum, cultural area, and center of commerce. It is referred to as "Old Town Albuquerque", or simply "Old Town."  If you go, leave your javelin at home.  They're not gonna' let you in with it! 

Albuquerque was founded in 1706 as the Spanish colonial outpost of Ranchos de Alburquerque.  Present-day Old Town Albuquerque retains much of its historical Spanish cultural heritage.

When the railroad arrived in 1880, it bypassed the plaza, locating the passenger depot and rail yards about 2 miles east, in what quickly became known as New Albuquerque, or New Town.  Old Town remained a separate community until the 1920s when it was absorbed by the city of Albuquerque.  I did NOT visit the Rattlesnake Museum, but was very content taking a picture of the window - it's probably why the railroad bypassed the town!

San Felipe de Neri - its beauty speaks for itself.

Down a few blocks, on a street that looks like an alley really, you will find The Church Street Cafe.

Not to be missed, this fabulous eatery was originally a hacienda (Casa de Ruiz) built during the founding of Albuquerque, sometime after 1706, making it the oldest residence in Albuquerque and one of the oldest structures in the state of New Mexico.  A better bowl of Posole, you’ll be hard pressed to find…the rest of the menu is equally as grand.  Church St. Cafe, 2111 Church St. NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104 - you'll be glad you stopped.

Make sure to take notice of the beautiful and unique SW vegetation...from the hollyhocks to the cacti, each one more vibrant than the next - the honeybees like 'em, too, and that's a very good thing!  No time for a siesta after lunch, as we're headed to Acoma Indian Pueblo next...