HOW DO I KNOW IT'S AUTHENTIC?...American Indian Jewelry and a New Form of Highway Robbery in the Southwest

I was asked this question by an interested friend last week and, having bought what has turned out to be a substantial piece this past week (sheerly by accident, and a post for two days from now), and knowing there is a problem that has been arising in the American Southwest for some years now, I thought I'd share a bit of what I know:

First and foremost, collect what you LIKE!  If you don't care, then it doesn't matter.  However, if you DO care what you're getting, then arm yourself with as much information as you can beforehand.  The tourist areas of the American Southwest have been experiencing an onslaught of shops owned by people of Middle Eastern descent POSING as Native American, and selling jewelry that they advertise as being Native American when, in actuality, it's knockoff jewelry designs being produced overseas...and certainly NOT by Native Americans!  And it's not just jewelry - rugs, pottery - none of it seems to be off limits to this deceptive practice.

To persons/tourists unfamiliar with our American Indians (and that's NOT an offensive word) by sight, this presents a serious problem.  You're NOT getting what you THINK you're paying for, in these shops, and it's undercutting the livelihoods of one of the most historically oppressed peoples in the United States.

The pieces above (and below) have all been collected by me personally, since the early seventies.  I used to wear them daily back then, and quit when everyone else zeroed in on the craze (thanks, Sundance Catalog).  I've begun slowly pulling them back out.

It wasn't really a problem then, knowing you were getting AUTHENTIC pieces.  Some of mine are old pawn pieces (if money was needed, Indians pawned their jewelry to trading posts on the reservations - when it went "dead", it was sold by the posts.  This practice continues to this day).  One bracelet was ordered and purchased DIRECT from the artisan - standing in his house, atop the mesa that houses the Hopi Reservation.  ALL others were purchased from either TRIBAL OWNED Cultural Centers/Trading Posts, or from REPUTABLE dealers.  If you walk into a shop where the guy behind the counter is wearing a nice, crisp white shirt, suit slacks, (OK, dressed like a Gold and Silver Jewelry dealer) and is on a cell phone, chances are you are not in the right place!

Look for hallmarks - most of the Native American pieces have an identifiable hallmark stamped somewhere on the back of the piece.  The silver overlay Kokopelli bracelet contains the hallmark of Bernard Dawahoya (upper right), while the larger sandcast bracelet with the turquoise center is stamped FJ on the reverse.  The three-stone bracelet was a high school graduation gift from my parents.

 

Old pawn necklaces from the Santo Domingo tribe (known for their heishi and turquoise necklaces), but also loved by, and usually attributed to, the Navajos.  These were usually strung on imitation Sinew (the real sinew was taken from buffalo gut - imitation is much more obtainable), or waxed cotton cords.  The newer pieces of jewelry utilize silver closures and more contemporary methods.  Doesn't mean they're not authentic, but know who you are buying from...when in doubt, ASK!

I started with the rings when I was young, travelling with a knowledgeable couple of parents.  These were all reservation pawn shop purchases, and extremely affordable at the time.

 

Which brings me to how easily confused someone "new" to the game can become when looking to start collecting.  The two OLD necklaces are on the left, laying next to a piece that I, MYSELF, am stringing - a work in progress. NEVER to be passed off as Native American - EVER!  This is being made BY ME, FOR ME, and I will TELL people I made it.  This, however, is NOT the same honesty you will find among shop owners posing as something they are not, and selling dishonestly. Caveat Emptor - buyer beware - when in doubt, ASK!

The unfinished, natural turquoise slab pieces were purchased at a bead store in Santa Fe three years ago, with no direction in mind at the time.  The bronze piece that I have hung from the bottom is an actual bronze sculpture, by Robert Rogers, that has hung from a simple leather cord since I received it as a gift.  It has always deserved better, and I decided it was time to combine the two elements, along with some beading wire.  I would NEVER claim this to be anything but handmade BY ME.  If we were all this honest, there wouldn't be a problem.  

 

Know your turquoise, as well...and again, if you don't care, it doesn't matter.  Collect what YOU like.  Natural turquoise deposits in the United States have just about been completely depleted, as far as mining it goes.  Long ago, it was discovered how to make turquoise "go a little further", by grinding it into dust and mixing it with epoxy.  Stabilizing in turquoise is sometimes hard to spot, unless you really know.  Then there's the Dyed Howlite.  Again, find a reputable dealer and ASK!

American Indian made?  Both ARE, believe it or not.  Rising silver prices have turned many of the Navajo silversmiths to copper and brass in recent years.

 

Again, HALLMARKS...the one on the left was made by Emerson Bill, a Navajo.  Which leads me back to my statement of them both being American Indian made...the one on the right was made by a Navajo silversmith, employed by a red-headed designer from Texas, by the name of Rocki Gorman.  She's got a breathtaking shop in Santa Fe, with a willingness to let you know EXACTLY who made the pieces for her, that she has designed.  This is stamped with HER hallmark, but Indian made nonetheless, utilizing many of the old stamps and designs from years past - these are both purchases made within the past 6 or 7 years.

 

The copper and brass pieces are an affordable way to enjoy some beautiful Native American pieces, for a fraction of the cost.  They patina beautifully over time, too!

 

Soooooooo...how DO you know you're getting the "real deal"?  There are a few ways.  First, BUY DIRECT.  Many of the Southwest towns known for their Native American "draw" have Indian Markets and/or selling areas.  Santa Fe has the Palace of the Governors Native American Vendors Program.  Old Town Albuquerque has the same type of set-up, but is now allowing NON-Native Americans to hawk their wares, among the Indians.  The bottom photo is my Dad, on a recent trip to Acoma Pueblo, where he purchased the beautiful bowl directly from the woman who made it.  BUY DIRECT - it's usually the best way of knowing what you are getting, and from whom.  

 

Buy from stores that announce themselves, RIGHT UP FRONT, as being Indian...

or Native American owned (these shops are both in Old Town Albuquerque, with faux Indian shops to either side).

This sort of signage has come about more and more in recent years, partly from desperation at the dishonest vendors moving in and pulling a "fast one" on unsuspecting tourists.  One non-Indian shop that passes itself AS being so (in old town Albuquerque) has even gone so far as to hire a Caucasian woman to "front" a shop filled with both American Indian, but MORE imported items claiming to be Indian made.  The honest shops in a town DO know who the outsiders are, and will always steer you to the right spots.  Don't just assume that a shop advertising Native American jewelry is actually selling the REAL thing.  When in doubt, ASK!

Seek out reputable dealers...ones that have been in business for YEARS prior to the deceitful practices the SW is experiencing.  Ones that still deal DIRECTLY, and honestly. with the Indians themselves.  Richardson's in Gallup (the tiny towns of Gallup and Zuni, NM both have a HUGE problem with this, now) has been in business since 1913.  Garland's in Sedona, Jackies in Taos, Hubbell's historic site in Ganado, NM...ALL reputable.  And they can tell you who else is!  An interesting article from 2003 for some further reading, click here... TENSION OVER WHO PROSPERS IN AN INDIAN CAPITAL

The Rainbow Man (pictured above), Native Jackets, Shalako, Keishi, and Shiprock Gallery in Santa Fe will ALL point you in the right direction, if they don't have what you want themselves.  Just arm yourself if it matters to you WHO made what you're after.  Again, collect what you LIKE, but when in doubt, ASK!  I'm not an expert, by any means...I've just learned - by asking and paying attention.  In a few days, I'll be back to show you a special piece I acquired this week...have a wonderful weekend.

AND THEN THERE WERE TWO...The Pendleton Bags, and a Wintry Glimpse at the Inspirational Town of SANTA FE, NM on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"...

And then there were TWO!  Revisiting the Pendleton Bag post from last summer, where my Mom and I purchased a mighty wool blanket in Santa Fe, solely for selfish fashion purposes.

Summoning up courage to take scissors to it took quite some time - hers came first...

Mine was finished during the past two weeks - two beautiful bags from one lovely, lovely blanket.  The Mexican silver pins belonged to my great-grandmother, and were destined for this - no longer relegated to the dark, top drawer of the dresser.  The blanket turned out to be such a great investment, we did it AGAIN, this January...ahhhh, January.  I know my friends in the Midwest and on the east coast cringe at the thought, but I wish it was back, already!  We are high eighties, with scorpions galore (including the one in the house last night - they go underground when the temps drop, and I don't see them for a few glorious months).  I hate scorpions!  With a passion!  

ALWAYS an inspiration, Santa Fe in the winter is quiet and beautiful - definitely the "off" tourist season.  We popped into town for three days, met by below freezing temps but no snow (the trip back did provide freezing fog, however).  This is the breathtaking Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, in the heart of old town.

Daytime was a little crisp, but it's quite a different experience walking the town without droves of tourists to contend with - not that we don't consider ourselves well within that definition.  It's just a "different", relaxing atmosphere - and FAR cooler than the beautiful, but beastly hot summer months.  You can also find lodging at off-peak rates in the winter months, which is an added plus.

Mariachi Buenaventura - always a fun drawing point for one of our local haunts (Tomasita's).  The all-female Mariachi group performs on Tuesday evenings.  The music is as wonderful as the musically gifted girls are beautiful.

A walk through the deserted streets on our way to dinner provided a far different look from daytime, for a favorite shop - the one where the newest Pendleton was purchased (a stunning grey and white one with red crosses...scissors are almost ready to fly on that one, now that the nerves are out of the way with the first two bags).  This window display - beautiful and ominous at the same time - belies the rest of the Native American treasures housed within.  This is a DEFINITE must-see - THE RAINBOW MAN on Palace Avenue.

Which led us to this dark "alleyway" next door, through which we wandered to our newest culinary discovery in town - one we have avoided in the past, for fear of it being more of a "touristy" spot (we tend to frequent the "locals" eating spots outside of town, for the more authentic stuff - OK, we're looking for the hot stuff).  We couldn't have been more wrong, all these years...

And, I hesitate to let the cat out of the bag (though I realize we were probably the last people to know about this joint, sadly), for fear of dining overload leading to us not being able to get a seat, but it's FABULOUS!!! - all the way around.  THE SHED has been cooking up incredible New Mexican meals since 1953.  Situated in a brightly painted hacienda that dates to 1692 - outstanding traditional dishes featuring Hatch, NM green chilies, blue corn tortillas, and a surprising twist in french garlic bread to sop up all the goodness.

Santa Fe in winter - a definite must see...from beauty and the beast, margaritas and fabulous regional cuisine...and bag inspiration - leading to MORE bags.  It's a hot town, even in the cold!

SANTA FE IN JANUARY on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

Short on words today - quiet like Santa Fe in January. Those who read here know how much I love this beautiful Southwest town. Craving Margaritas and a change of scenery, we made a quick trip a few days into the new year.  Luminarias were still in place atop most buildings around town - shadows were long, and it never reached higher than 30 degrees daytime.

Night shots through margarita colored glasses - feeling warm enough (on the inside, at least) for a quick walk through town...no tripod, but a few "acceptable" shots of those little paper bags, lit. Most of these are electric, as they burn all night.  SW charming, for sure!  HUGE pocket watch stands at the side of the Plaza. The closer I got (damnable drink!), the "huger" it seemed to get...tick, tick, TICK...

And the stranger 100 dollar bills looked through Gallery windows - like they were looking back at me, and I couldn't figure out who that President was!

Daytime in the Plaza/winter - not as bustling as the touristy summer months, which leaves plenty of space available for hacky sack among friends.

Sights around town under crisp blue, New Mexico skies - ristras, flags flying, bronze bovines, and the St. Francis Cathedral looming over the Plaza.

Another beautiful bronze outside a Gallery.  Had I seen this the night before, under Margarita skies, I might have believed it real!

Adobe walls, the Loretto Chapel, and antique blankets hung in windows- this beautiful town speaks volumes of history.

And those beautiful blue skies tend to turn into...

this, in the evenings.  Captured on our way to dinner...a quick shout to "Stop the car!  Please!", and a run back to one of the standout spots in town.

Just west of the Santa Fe Plaza, stands the El Santuaria de Guadalupe Church.   Built in 1781, the church is now an art and history museum.

Housing the Archdiocese's of Santa Fe's collection of New Mexico Santos (carved images of the Saints), as well as Italian Renaissance paintings and Mexican Baroque paintings.

I must admit to not being inside of this, as I really thought it was just a beautiful old church...it was a spectacular focal piece for the sunset that night, however.

The town of Santa Fe is SO full of art, up and down the main streets, that we have never really thought to look farther than the "old stomping grounds"...

This, however, just made it onto the "to do" list for a future trip.

Always worth a look, the town of Santa Fe - go for the local beauty and charm...stay for the sunsets, and then head for the Margaritas!

A SW TRILOGY - SANTA FE, ALBUQUERQUE, AND GALLUP, NEW MEXICO on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

"This year we are making a studied conscious effort not to be studied or conscious. Santa Fe is now one of the most interesting art centers in the world and you, O Dude of the East, are privileged to behold the most sophisticated group in the country gamboling freely... And Santa Fe, making you welcome, will enjoy itself hugely watching the Dude as he gazes. Be sure as you stroll along looking for the quaint and picturesque that you are supplying your share of those very qualities to Santa Fe, the City Incongruous... Be yourself, even if it includes synthetic cowboy clothes, motor goggles and a camera." ~

1928 Santa Fe Fiesta Program

I didn't write it (as I'm chuckling to myself, thinking of Jeff Bridges as "The Dude", in The Big Lebowski), but if you've ever been to Santa Fe, you "get" this quote, exactly!  One of the most interesting art centers in the country - exactly.  Sophisticated groups gamboling freely - exactly.  Making you feel welcome - exactly.  City Incongruous - EXACTLY! 

From the gorgeous SW architecture, to the Native American Vendors Program at the Palace of the Governors, to the quaint and picturesque center plaza, museums, shops, galleries, belly dancers...there's something for everyone in this beautiful SW town, Dude!

I did a few posts on Santa Fe last year (that you can find using the "Secret Words" section, or starting HERE), detailing more of the history of the town.  Rather than repeat myself now, some of the sights from town can speak volumes, and just might "enjoy itself hugely watching the Dude as he gazes".  I know, I couldn't have written it better myself, if I tried!  Maybe with a margarita or two?!

The historic SANTA FE DEPOT sits just outside of the downtown area, at 410 S. Guadalupe St.  A day pass on the Rail Runner, to our next stop of Albuquerque, will cost you $10.00, if you forgot your "motor goggles".  Before that, however, drop across the parking lot to Tomasita's Santa Fe...deliciously authentic Mexican food, with probably the best local charm going.

If you're lucky, you'll hit on a night that Santa Fe's ONLY all-female mariachi, Mariachi Buenaventura, is entertaining.  Beautiful girls, stunning voices, accomplished musicians - always a crowd pleaser!

The flavor of the food sings as loudly as the mariachi!  Green chile, hominy, sopapillas, and margaritas... 

And, you want the best margarita in town?  You head to MARIA'S, up the road and around the corner.  The food is outstanding, but with over 100 margaritas (this was a few pages into the margarita menu, by the way...they are not all priced like this, though some go higher - I believe the "house" margarita, which is excellent, will run you around $6-7) to choose from, you might be neither "studied or conscious", when you're done!  BEST in town, Dude!!!

Once you've "slept off" the salt (I'm sure that's what kicked my ass last time), and found your motor goggles once again, it's a quick 63 miles SW to Albuquerque, by car. 

ALBUQUERQUE is just as charming and unique as Santa Fe, with a little less hustle and bustle (in Old Town, at least).  Native American vendors, galleries, museums, shops - it's all here too, Dude!

 I've written about old town (HERE) before, also...these SW towns are some of the most enchanting and colorful in our United States.  Albuquerque is also known as THE BALLOONING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD, with the world's largest hot air balloon festival taking place each October.  Obviously, we weren't there then, or my pictures would have been spectacular.

But, the food is spectacular, anytime of year.  Said it before...will say it again CHURCH STREET CAFE - best posole in town!  And, you can walk it off strolling back to the main plaza...or, I think I saw a trolley somewhere, Dude. 

"Just take my way, that's the highway ~ that's the best.  Get your kicks on Route 66!"  138 mi. west, along old Route 66 (Interstate 40), lies the sleepy little railroad town of Gallup, NM. 

Located in the heart of tribal lands, you'll find a large American Indian influence in town.  Make a stop at Richardson's Trading Post, on the main drag, for an incredible look at Native American jewelry (including old pawn pieces), baskets, rugs (Richardson's claims to have the largest selection of Native American rugs in the Southwest on display), and antique pieces.  I wasn't sure they'd let me inside with my camera that day (though I didn't ask, either...it's like walking into a museum, really), so amused myself with just what I found in one front window...some antique relics, and one of the most incredibly weird taxidermy mountain lions I will probably ever see ~ Dude!