PEARL HARBOR and the USS ARIZONA MEMORIAL on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

No trip to Oahu, Hawaii, should be considered complete without a day spent at Pearl Harbor and the WORLD WAR II VALOR IN THE PACIFIC NATIONAL MONUMENT.  In fact, while immersed in our day there (we opened AND closed the monument that day), I came to a personal conclusion that the site should be a requisite for all American citizens, at least once in their lifetime - it was that powerful.

The Pearl Harbor Visitor Center  is located along the Pearl Harbor shore.  From the grounds of the Visitor Center, you can view various massive ships from our present day naval fleet.  We were fortunate enough to get a close up view of the famed aircraft carrier, the USS Nimitz, leaving port after a week of international training exercises.  The Visitor Center and it's surrounding grounds, as well as the USS Arizona Memorial are free to the public.  There are nominal charges, well worth paying, for visiting some of the other attractions housed within the monument. 

The Visitor Center, in addition to a beautiful museum documenting events leading up to and after that day, has a 23 minute film on the history of the politics, the peoples, and the attack on Pearl Harbor, December 7, 1941.  I'm not sure it's possible to stay emotionless or dry-eyed during the film.  From there, you board a Navy operated shuttle boat for a ride to the middle of the harbor - the final resting place of the USS Arizona, and many of the 1,177 American crewmen killed on that day of infamy. 

A humbling experience, to say the very least, the Memorial straddles the ship's hull, still oozing minute amounts of oil after all these years.  Unlike many of the other ships sunk or damaged that day, the Arizona could not be fully salvaged, though the Navy removed parts of the ship for reuse (the anchor from the ship can be viewed on the Visitor Center grounds).  Smaller memorials surrounding the Arizona, mark the positions of other American ships in the harbor during the attack that day.

If you've only got limited time, by all means, and in the very least, see the Arizona Memorial.  If you'd like the whole experience, plan on spending the day and seeing it all (I LOVE history and museums, and could have probably spent two full days here, comfortably).  The BATTLESHIP MISSOURI MEMORIAL, located on Ford Island (along with the airstrip and Pacific Aviation Museum) quite prominent in the harbor, is a huge part of the history of Pearl Harbor.  A short, tour bus ride will get you to the island and the Memorial - there is no other access other than with the tour, as it is still an active base.

On September 2, 1945, in Tokyo Bay (which no American ship had ever entered, to that point), the deck of the USS Missouri was the site of the signing of two copies of the "Instrument of Surrender", by the Japanese Empire, bringing an end to World War II.

A wonderfully informative tour regarding the historical importance of the ship by retired naval personnel will begin your visit, with you being able to roam freely afterwards, if you please. 

Pulling out the big guns...

From there, it's a jump back on one of the shuttle buses, for a quick jog over to the PACIFIC AVIATION MUSEUM. 

Set in some of the original hangars that survived the 1941 attack, you'll wander through displays of life on the island prior to the attack, and be able to view a multitude of aircraft, both American and non, instrumental in WWII and the Korean War, as well as more modern conflicts.

The hangar windows have been preserved with the original glass - evidence of the strafing from the Japanese planes that fateful day...same can be seen in various spots on the outer walls. 

If you've chosen this portion of the Pearl Harbor experience (and I hope you do), you will be entitled to another highly informative guided tour, but are able to spend as much time walking around on your own as you want, afterwards. 

There's a darling little cafe situated in Hangar 37, where you can relax amid some pretty wonderful memorabilia.  For those that want the full experience, Combat Flight Simulators are also available for an additional fee.

Back at the Visitor Center, lies the submarine, The USS BOWFIN.  Decommissioned in 1947, The Bowfin was acquired and placed in the monument, as a memorial to the U.S. Submarine Force at Pearl Harbor.  There is a small charge for entry to this, but the tour is completely self-guided with the assist of a hand-held audio wand.

Food and restrooms are readily available at numerous locations throughout the Visitor Center, and on Ford Island.  It was suggested to us that we do the USS Arizona first thing in the morning (tickets are free to the Memorial, but are on a first come, first serve basis during the day); The Might Mo and the Aviation Museum on Ford Island next, and in that order; and then back to the Visitor Center to wander through the various other museums and the submarine.  Worked out perfectly and like I said, we were one of the first through the gates when it opened that morning, and found ourselves two of the last to walk back out in the last few minutes of the day.  To say I was moved, beyond words, is an understatement! 

Wear comfortable shoes and clothing - drink lots of water, and pace yourselves...see what is most important to you personally, but see it! Once. At least.  Can't get there?  There's lots of reading materials to take advantage of, and no excuse not to (OK, there's a movie too - you might even recognize the original tower from the Airstrip in a few shots).  And thank our men and women in uniform, past and present, for their sacrifices for our freedoms.

 "December 7, 1941—a date which will live in infamy..."

Franklin D. Roosevelt

NATIONAL MEMORIAL CEMETERY OF THE PACIFIC on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

First and foremost, our hearts and prayers go out to those who lost their lives, and/or had their worlds turned upside down yesterday, by a horrific, senseless, and cowardly act of terrorism committed in the heart of Boston, MA - UNITED States of America.

 

Above the city of Honolulu, cradled within the rim of an extinct volcano known locally as Punchbowl Crater, sits the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific - 112+ acres of solemn and sacred beauty.

The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific is one of two hallowed resting places for the recovered remains of World War II dead.  Punchbowl is now filled to capacity with 33,000+ grave sites and, since August 1, 1991, burials have been at the Hawaii State Veterans Cemetery in Kaneohe, on the island of Oahu.

The impressive Honolulu Memorial, situated in the heart of the cemetery, was dedicated on May 1, 1966. It was erected to honor the sacrifices and achievements of American Armed Forces in the Pacific during World War II and the Korean Conflict. In 1980, it was enlarged to include the missing of the Vietnam Conflict. The memorial overlooks the graves area of the cemetery, and consists of a non-sectarian chapel, two map galleries, and a monumental staircase leading from the crater floor to the Court Of Honor and Courts of the Missing.

 

The tower, which houses the chapel, features a 30-foot female figure, known as Columbia, standing on the symbolized prow of a U.S. Navy vessel. Below the figure is the poignant sympathy expressed by President Abraham Lincoln to Mrs. Bixby, who lost five sons in battle during the Civil War.

Recorded in the ten Courts of the Missing that flank the massive staircase, are the names of 18,094 World War II heroes missing in action (MIA) or lost or buried at sea in the Pacific (excluding the Southwest Pacific and the Palau Islands - the MIA's from these areas are memorialized at the Manila American Cemetery).  There are also 8,195 listed from the Korea Conflict, and 2,489 from the Vietnam Conflict - 28,778 names, in total.  

Map galleries extend from both sides of the tower, and contain beautiful stone inlaid maps and texts recording the achievements of the American Armed Forces in the central and south Pacific regions, as well as Korea.

As we were leaving the cemetery that day, we realized that there was a walking trail leading from behind the Memorial, up a hill.  Parking the car, and talking a slow, reflective walk up the paved path, led us to various small remembrances along the way...

and an incredible overlook of Honolulu from one side, and the humbling cemetery below, from the other.  A large stone memorial at the top commemorates and remembers "United States military personnel captured by the Japanese in 1942, and forced to work on the Siam-Burma “Death Railway” as POW’s.  133 died due to malnutrition, tropical disease, starvation, medical neglect, and other causes".

"This is not a bivouac of the dead.  It is a colony of Heaven, and some part of us all is buried here."

From a small stone memorial aside the walking trail that day..."These words were spoken by the 6^th Marine Division Chaplain at our cemetery on Okinawa in 1945"...

 

Last stop of the Oahu island tour will be the Pearl Harbor Memorial.  Until next week, may you and your loved ones stay safe, be happy, and remember those who have sacrificed all, and continue to give, to this day, for our freedoms.

SNAPSHOTS FROM OAHU on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

 A Sunday drive around the entire coastline of Oahu (there is a highway that cuts through the middle of the island that will take considerable time off your trip) will take you approximately 4 hours of travel time.  Stop here and there to snap off a few photos, eat lunch, and just soak in the jaw-dropping scenery, and you're got a pretty picture perfect day in Hawaii...

Larger than life bronze Hawaiian dancers in the pond at the Hilton Hawaiian Village, that I passed on my walks through Honolulu, daily.  As my husband was working there long-term, we were put up at the Ilikai Hotel - Hawaii's first luxury high-rise hotel, and featured in the opening shots of the old and new Hawaii Five-O shows (that's it on the left hand side of the upper right photo).  The boat harbor sits behind the hotel, and the beach is just a few steps beyond that.

Lighthouses - Oahu has plenty - up close, and afar.  This sits at the Diamond Head Beach Park.

The HALONA BLOWHOLE - about 15 minutes from Waikiki Beach.  The blowhole is a natural occurrence formed by molten lava tubes from volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. Lava tubes run to the ocean and, when the surf is right, the blowhole in the rocks shoots water up to 30 feet in the air. The larger the waves, the higher the spray.

MOKOLII, also known among locals as CHINAMAN'S HAT, on Oahu’s windward coast. The small island is located at the north end of Kaneohe Bay.

Fairly close in proximity (but actually backtracking here just a bit from Mokolii), is the NUUANU PALI LOOKOUT , which offers panoramic views of the sheer Koolau cliffs and lush Windward Coast. Driving up the Pali Highway through tall trees and dense forests to get to the lookout, you’ll see the city disappear and the tranquil beauty of Hawaii’s natural landscape emerge (OK, THAT's from a travel site, but EXACTLY spot on).  Over a thousand feet above the Oahu coastline amid mountain peaks shrouded by clouds, the stone terrace overlooks the areas of Kaneohe, Kailua, and Mokolii .

KAHANA BAY BEACH PARK - a lot of this surrounding area was used in the filming of the TV series, "LOST".

The shoreline and waves along this entire drive are breathtaking. Another lighthouse on the two upper right photos (squint hard); MANANA ISLAND on the lower left - also known as RABBIT ISLAND.  Look like a rabbit's head to you?  Coincidental - rabbits were raised on the island until 1994 - it's now a protected bird sanctuary.

The local boys my husband worked with sent us to GIOVANNI'S SHRIMP TRUCK, on the North Shore - said it was the best around...they weren't wrong.  Stop, have some shrimp, and leave your signature on their truck.  Down the road from that, they claimed, we absolutely HAD to stop at MATSUMOTO SHAVE ICE in Haleiwa - see that line out the door of the store?  It was twice as long as that at one point.  Obviously THE best spot in town (other shave ice stores right around it, but everyone was at this one) - and definitely worth the entire drive that day, even if it did give the husband person immediate brain freeze!  Sno-cones got nuthin' on these, kids!

WAIMEA VALLEY - lush, tropical, and everything you would expect of Hawaii!  An area of historic cultural significance, the valley, being an important place in Hawaiian religion, includes several historical structures including stone terraces and walls constructed during the time of the Hawaiian monarchy.  A great place to bask in nature, stretch the legs, and walk off garlic shrimp and tropical shave ice!

 

All this, and much more to be seen - we passed pineapple fields and the Dole Pineapple Plantation on the way back!  Pearl Harbor and Punchbowl Crater will round out the next two weeks - hopefully someone out there will be inspired to visit and snap a few photos of their own.

Wish I was, too!

HIKE DIAMOND HEAD on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

While I just got back from my home state of CO, I feel the need to finish up where I left off with Hawaii.  Each and every day of our trip, I faced this majestic volcanic mountain across the waters of Waikiki Beach.  Each and every day I was there, I told the husband person that I WOULD hike up to the top of a volcano.  Not my first choice - I actually picked one along the opposite side of the road, that was a straight shot to the top.  Having revisited a serious old ankle injury earlier in the summer, and still having it wrapped heavily, I was told I would NOT be hiking THAT particular volcano...nor would HE be hiking ANY volcano I happened to pick, with me.  Chicken!

Tired of hearing my pleas to ascend to the top of Hawaii, I was unceremoniously dropped at the entrance to Diamond Head State Monument - I HIKED DIAMOND HEAD (while he headed back to the "office" and told me to call when I thought I had had enough)!

The Diamond Head crater is more than 3,500 feet in diameter and is part of the now dormant Hawaiian volcano chain from more than a half million years ago. The crater is also called “Le'ahi,” which means “brow of the tuna” in Hawaiian. It got the name Diamond Head almost 200 years ago from British sailors who believed there were diamonds in the side of the crater - none were ever found.

The biggest tip I can give you, besides bringing along your camera, is WATER!  Make sure you have at least one bottle with you.  REAL SHOES is the second.  From the crater floor to the summit, you will hike 0.8 miles one way, climbing 560 feet.  The trail starts out paved, before turning into dirt and/or slightly rocky switchbacks that climb to the first lookout point, where you can catch your breath - only to lose it again, to the scenic vistas.

 

It was at this point that I met the dearest little Japanese-American man (4th generation Hawaiian, he was quick to point out), who told me he was in his mid 80's, and climbed to that point three times a week.  After imparting quite a bit of history about the crater and the island of Moloka'i in the distance (a former leper colony, and now pretty much uninhabited), he looked at me and told me that I should take the "special route", because I looked strong enough (obviously missing my ankle).  He did tell me that there would be stairs and a tunnel (there IS an easier route to the top from this point, should you choose).

Yes, there were stairs...74 of them.  And a tunnel - 200 ft. of tunnel.  Which dumped me out at the bottom of a second set of stairs the man forgot to tell me about.  A second set of stairs that stopped me dead in my tracks, looking more like a ladder than a staircase (that second picture is no exaggeration on perspective).  A second set of stairs that had 99 steps in it!  A second set of stairs that halfway up, had me thinking that if I found that dear little man on the way back down, I might just consider beating him to death.

 

AND, there was a second, shorter tunnel at the top of those stairs that led to another 52 steps up a 3 story spiral staircase, that leads to the old Fire Control Station lookout area.  This leads to a final 54 stairs to the summit.  I had now climbed 279 stairs (remember, there IS an easier route up), and once I caught my breath, I was awestruck by the 360 degree view - elevation 761 feet.

Diamond Head was purchased in 1904 by the Federal Government, and designated for military use.  Fortification began in 1908, with the construction of the gun emplacements and the trails and tunnels (yes, those tunnels). 

A total of five batteries were built atop Diamond Head, to house coastal artillery. The Fire Control Station was built between 1908 and 1910, and housed instruments and plotting rooms to direct artillery fire from the batteries.

Additional coastal defense was provided by long range guns on the outer slopes and rim of the crater around 1915. Diamond Head was prepared to defend O'ahu from attack, but no artillery was ever fired during a war. 

And the return trip, should you decide to be smart about it, will take you half the time going down...but, what did I do?  I figured that if I went UP the "special route", then I sure as hell was going back down the same way - it was all a matter of principal at that point, stairs schmairs!  558 stairs in total that day (REMEMBER, THERE IS AN EASIER ROUTE) - I did the whole trip in less than an hour and a half (including the 15 minute history lesson from the little man, and admiring the view from the top for quite some time).  I did it - I hiked my volcano - I hiked Diamond Head!  For more information on how to get to the entrance leading to those incredibly scenic stairs, visit HAWAII STATE PARKS.ORG.

LOVELY HULA HANDS on "TRAVEL TUESDAY"

And what trip to Oahu wouldn't be complete without taking in a hula or two?  Developed in the Hawaiian Islands by the Polynesians who originally settled there, hula is accompanied by chant or song that preserves and perpetuates the stories, traditions and culture of Hawaii.  And no, it's not just for GIRLS!

You can see authentic hula throughout Oahu at live performances at hotels and resorts, along with seasonal festivals and competitions held right along Waikiki Beach.  The ALA MOANA CENTER, one of Oahu's most beautiful shopping areas was a 15 minute walk from our hotel, and hosts a daily 20 minute hula demonstration in their center court.  Great vantage points and seats on two levels surrounding the stage.

Palm leaf skirts and lots of shakin' goin' on...three costume changes and three different dances during this 20 minute performance.

These two lovely performers were at our hotel's courtyard on Friday and Saturday evening, along with a firework display each and every weekend.

When Captain James Cook arrived in Hawaii in 1778 there were, depending on the various estimates available, between 300,000 and 400,000 native Hawaiians.  Over the last two hundred thirty five years, the numbers of pure Hawaiians, those with only Hawaiian blood, has declined - today, there are less than 8,000 pure Hawaiians alive.

On the other hand, the number of those who are, at least, part Hawaiian and who consider themselves to be Hawaiian, has increased steadily since the turn of the century. Today, there are estimated to be between 225,000 and 250,000 people with Hawaiian blood living in Hawaii.

Pure or part, it's pretty wonderful to see these traditions being kept alive today.  For more information on year-long Hula Festivals, as well as the dance itself, visit HAWAIIAN HULA INFO. 

 

As for me this week, I am dancing my way home to CO for a bit, and already into the "pre-flight non-sleep" issue that plagues me before a trip, each way.  Two days to get things in order before I leave the family here, for family there...two days to hopefully get a few more Travel Tuesdays lined up and scheduled to post here, magically while I'm gone - two days to hopefully get SOME sleep.  Happy Tuesday, and in the words of Jeff Spicoli, "Aloha, Mr. Hand!"...yeah, when you can quote Fast Times at Ridgemont High, you  might just be sleep deprived!